Hi everyone, I’m Jeff Sansone, Sous Chef at ZINC Restaurant.
I’ve recently had an epiphany—I care about meat. I’ve been reading a lot of literature lately concerning “humanely” raised and slaughtered animals.
I know Denise has been very conscientious about what we serve at ZINC and CHOW, seeking out sources for line-caught fish and hormone-free chicken and beef. And I’ve been behind her efforts…in theory. But then Donna Curran, co-owner of ZINC, gave me a copy of “The River Cottage Meat Book” by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and the first 30 pages are about this exact topic. The author discusses the arguments on all sides—eating humanely, eating vegan, and eating anything. To my surprise, it turns out that I actually care. Possibly from the overwhelming literature, or maybe because I now have a child whose future I am deeply concerned about. Either way, my eyes have been opened.
I respect the vegetarians and the vegans, as well as the carnivores (of which group I still belong) but I now know there needs to be a balance. Knowing where our food comes from, how it lived and also how it died does matter. I think the debate is just starting—and hopefully the awareness too. From Jamie Oliver surprising audiences by killing a chicken and preparing it, to chefs across America, to Fearnley-Whittingstall’s books…I believe (and hope) we may be on the cusp of saying Good-bye to mass-produced supermarket meat and Hello to small production, humanely treated meat.
But see for yourself. Join the conversation and read more. I’ve included a few links to some of the articles and books available and sources for consumers to get better meat and poultry—that is, other than dining at ZINC, of course!
New York Times: “Chef’s New Goal: Looking Dinner in the Eye” by Julia Moskin, January 16, 2008
The New Yorker: “Red, White, and Bleu, What do we eat when we eat meat?” by Bill Buford,December 3, 2007
So what do you think? Are we too detached from what we eat? Have our standards become to relaxed? Or do you think the agriculture industry is just fine? I look forward to hearing what you think.
-Jeff
Bravo.
I have been tossing around in my mind for over a year how one could approach local eating establishments with these very ideas. I’m still not sure how (or if) everyone can be convinced to shun the Sysco supply truck for strictly local ingredients. A big part of the problem is us; particularly our non-seasonal-minded eating habits, and the fact that many people just don’t want to know where their food comes from because they are afraid of the answer. And the challenge of changing. And let’s not forget that the trendy nature of local goods has driven up prices at farmer’s markets. People should seek out co-ops, of which there are a few in the area.
Making this even more difficult is the vegan/vegetarian movement, who choose poorly or conveniently derived statistics and bottom-of-the-barrel raising and slaughtering practices as examples of why partaking of animal-based products is bad. I’m pretty sure all they accomplish is fostering an “us vs. them” mentality, making would be “conscious omnivores” (to steal and alter a clever phrase) into indignant, non-caring omnivores.
My personal philosophy is that food is sacred, and should be grown or raised and prepared with that in mind. We, in our fast food and chain restaurant culture, have drifted very far indeed from that ideal.
I recommend “The Way We Eat: Why Our Food Choices Matter” by Peter Singer and Jim Mason. I generally don’t agree with any vegetarian conclusions, however, they make some very valid points. As an example they make a good case for finding out what “cage-free” actually means to your source for cage-free eggs. It’s surprising. In fact, it really underscores the importance of “going local.”
FYI – A year ago I was in Boulder, CO, and found an excellent restaurant which really strives for the ideal: http://www.thekitchencafe.com/. Local, sustainable, and very popular.
Matt
P.S. See you tonight at the Chef’s Table!
Jeff,
News stories like the one this week about the 143 MILLION pounds of beef that was recalled – not for fear of illness but rather for the mistreatment of the cattle at a California slaughterhouse – is proof enough that more of us should care and more of us should pay attention to where we get our food. The faint of heart should spare themselves from watching the video that was on CNN.com this weekend.
You asked are our standards too relaxed? Is the “..agriculture industry just fine?” Possibly this exerpt from the AP answers the questions:
“..cattle that had passed pre-slaughter inspections but then lost the ability to walk were slaughtered without being re-examined for chronic illness by an inspector, a practice he said violated federal regulations and had been going on for at least two years.
In January, the Humane Society of the United States accused Westland/Hallmark of abusing “downed” cattle. The Humane Society released video that showed workers kicking cows, jabbing them near their eyes, ramming them with a forklift and shooting high-pressure water up their noses in an effort to force them to their feet for slaughter.”
Unfortunately it was reported today the most of the beef has likely been eaten. Let’s hope the fines Westland/Hallmark Meat Packing Company are handed are equal if not greater than the value of the beef that should have been recalled.
Michael,
I had not seen the beef recall video until I read this posting. UNBELIEVABLE. I can’t imagine how someone gets to a point of such disregard for life and animal treatment…and then how do they go back? It really makes me wonder who is really watching the goings-on?
Ultimately, we all need to make our own choices of what we find acceptable. Here at ZINC, we have deliberately switched to an all natural NY Strip. Yes it costs more, but I believe the better flavor and piece of mind are more than worth it.
And personally, I won’t eat steak 3 nights a week anymore. Oh well…maybe that’s a good thing…only eat beef when I can afford to eat the humanely treated products…and then it will be even more of a treat.
Thanks for your great posts Matt and Michael.
-Jeff
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